Showing posts with label Black Sea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Black Sea. Show all posts

Saturday, 27 July 2013

Memorabilia

Tourists give themselves away so quickly when they walk into new surroundings, rubbernecking, checking maps, and fumbling with the currency.  Fortunately, the tourist trade is often profitable business for the locals.  With experience, cajoling locals can entice eager tourists to open their wallets with the "gotta have it" trinket or treasure to remind them of their journey. We have all picked up little things that eventually, and laughingly, land in the bins of the "white elephant", or garage sale.  This Black Sea tour is loaded with such fare.  Little stacking matrioshka dolls, Black Sea beach towels, Black Sea Fleet hats and shirts, miniature plates and pots emblazoned with the location, small reminders of a good vacation by the sea.  And photos of this mysteriously beautiful sea! 

The Black Sea coast is a place of fabulous vistas, and absolutely inviting seascapes.  Warm and hospitable, the climate is perfect for a summers beach holiday.  We have seen lots of people swimming at the crowded beaches near town here in the summer, but that is not really what it is about.  In fact, the fresh water draining from the river deltas around populated port cities like Odessa continues to be polluted, and not recommended for drinking.  So most people use the opportunity to stroll endlessly, and visit arcades, cafes, bars and clubs here.  Nonetheless, at Chersonesus for example, while the archeology of the site speaks volumes, some obliviously walk through in search of a place to a "swim", to assert their dominance over a little portion of the pebbly beach at this fabulous government protected site.  They seem indifferent to the foreign eyes who thirstily soak up a sense of its hallowed and honorable past.  

I imagine living in a place absolutely soaking in history can affect a person's character, perhaps of the entire nation.  It might get tiring, boring or tedious to see old stones, old temples, places that are ancient, when you are yearning for new, for opportunity, for the newest technology, for prosperity.  It might seem that the stones could be better used, the artifacts crushed, burned, or repurposed.  All that old stuff means one thing to the locals, easily gotten resources to sell.  It is something completely different to tourists from newer civilizations. 

Feeling a bit like a tourist, a bit like a native/foreigner, and a curious traveller lately.  Can I bring more trinkets, more "stuff" into the collection of valuable artifacts that I call home?  What about embroideries, pottery, and textiles?  What about songs, dances, melodies, rhythms and subtle turns of phrase?  Stories and history?  Without my active engagment with them, they are silent as the stones at Chersonesus.  The treasures I am acquiring don't take too much room in my suitcase, my mind is a buzzing.  

Friday, 19 July 2013

From the Black Sea


Since childhood I have felt of "two worlds".  Canadian born, with Canadian born grandparents, I nonetheless consider myself not only of Ukrainian heritage, but Ukrainian.  I know that seems  ridiculous, but like many western Canadians of Ukrainian heritage the idea of becoming "only" Canadian, really offends my sense of ancestry, heritage and quite frankly, family.

Economic opportunity and a life of possibilities drew me great grandparents to Canada.  Though not necessarily impoverished at home, they worried incessantly about their children's children and how life would unfold for them.  So they assertively and adventurously set out for a life of delayed personal gratification, temporary self sacrifice and cultural impoverishment for the comforts of home, un order to secure better economic opportunities for their progeny.  They endured a life of communal melancholy for their ancestral home -ways, while simultaneously endlessly optimistic and high spirited for the limitless opportunities Canada offered them.  Their material gains nonetheless left space for a recognition that their children would be impoverished without the language, traditions and cultural artifacts of a thousands year old homeland.  I was fortunate to have had an enriched experience with all the trappings of an arts filled Ukrainian-Canadian lifestyle.

I have led the life of an "in-between-er", "bi-or-multi-cultural" through and through.  Over a century Canadian, I have a romanticized vision of the ancestral home life, and often long for things I have never known personally but vicariously.  

So I am on a voyage to the Black Sea to explore this interesting place I find in my head, the place where I am a native-foreigner, not a native born in Ukraine Ukrainian, yet not necessarily a foreigner because the language and culture is familiar.  Interesting melancholia/euphoria of a native/foreigner.  More to come.   

Saturday, 20 October 2012

Wanna go on a Black Sea Cruise?

I have always wanted to see the Black Sea.  Besides the interesting name, Black Sea, its deep waters have been part of the stories, folklore and traditions of my ancestral homeland.  And up until recently, the opportunity simply hasn't been available to go there. Time to get planning!!

Actually, Ukraine's re-emergence as an independent state only dates from 1991.  Prior to this, for the remembered history (over 70 years, and way more) there was really no opportunity to voyage there due to the political situation in what was the Soviet Union, and before that the Russian Empire and various other conquering states. 

Conversations with new immigrants to Canada indicate that in their memories, the Black Sea was really a place only for the elite, or the military.  Voyage, personal vacations, tourists from the rest of the world have been thwarted from seeing the Black Sea "up close and personal". It is really exciting to consider that as a possibility now!

Studying history, most westerners have a skewed perception of this vast area.  Our history books have been filled with colonial and conquerer's perceptions of Ukraine.  In fact, Ukrainians themselves have real and significant gaps in their historical understandings. One has to remember that it is the "ruling class" who writes the history books, and they have a vested interest in hiding uncomfortable truths.

Nonetheless, the intriquing stories about the Crimean War, stories of Istanbul-Constantinople, the Borsphorus, the ancient ports of Turkey, Georgia, Ukraine and Bulgaria simply fascinate me.  The folk songs telling of Ukraine's kozaks', their interactions with various friendly and unfriendly neighbors, the influences of cultures, values and belief systems on the people, and the ever steady presence of the deep and mysterious Black Sea all bear some information - but there is so much more to know!

It seems that way back before Kievan Rus' (860 and perhaps earlier) the ancestral people from central Ukraine played battle games with the great Empire of Constantinople.  From a time when Ukraine's flatland was a harvesting place for human bondage, comes the famous story of Roxolana, a poor Ukrainien girl from the steppes, her capture by the Ottoman Empire, and how she became not only the Sultan's favorite concubine, but his wife and Empress.  And from Kozak Duma's are stories of Cossacks nailing a battle sheild to the exterior wall of the Turkish Empire. And famous paintings like Repin's portray the Cossacks Writing to the Sultan with such glorious expression. 

Really, there is so much to know about the Black Sea, and through it, to re-interpret the stories of victors and villains, and perhaps understand her for the first time. 

Roxolana: The Greatest Empresse of the East - By  Galina Yermolenko, DeSales University, Center Valley, Pennsylvania
 
Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine
 
Black Sea - from Space
http://www.redorbit.com/news/video/space_2/1112699529/earth-from-space-black-sea/
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