We Were Here

Stone Baba
Velike/Velichne Art Exhibit
Kyiv August 2013amk

When Canadians see an Inukshuk, we are reminded of the ancient history of the Inuit people.  Their piled stone sentinels marked the Arctic landscape, sparsely populated but consistently inhabited for thousands of years.  Over the course of European presence in North America, these stone statues represent the lingering aspirations of a people, to be remembered. Reminders of the human hands that intentionally gathered, interpreted, shaped and piled the stones, their dreams of eternal memory linger. For Canadians, the Inuit inukshuk tells us of a people who were here long ago.

For the newcomer, the Ukrainian term Baba means grandmother.  Or rather, it is an honorific that is used when referring to an older woman, in this case a grandmother.  Baba, Babushka, Babusia,  Babunia, these are all endearments, all referring with respect and honor a woman of wisdom, perhaps but not necessarily older, representative of lineage, heritage, family, wisdom, care and love.  The term Baba is generously applied across the spectrum within the Ukrainian world, in Ukraine and in the diaspora.

stone baba
Odessa museum
July 2013amk

stone baba - Feodosia museum
July 2013amk

The storied history of the lands north of the Black Sea extends back thousands of years, many thousands of years into prehistory when preliterate cultures dotted the landscape.  Living full lives, and attesting to their very existence, they left stones of honor over kurhan grave mounds.  Whether simple, or carved, weather battered or protected under the soil, these stone Babas witness to the past.  And they are now protected in some of the great museums in Eastern Europe.

stone baba
Odessa museum
July 2013

Stone Babas, now battered and ravaged by weather, raiders, guests and colonizers once dotted the landscape.  Markers of ancient burial sites called kurhans, they protected the offerings of bone and wealth within, and witnessed the rising of the sun over the horizon, in anticipation of an afterlife for the souls released.  It is said that nothing goes wasted, so most of the stone Babas have put put to new use, recycled into the foundations of some temple to more modern ways.  The stone Babas that remain however, say "we were here" to anyone passing, even though now most of them stand lonely and silent in parks, museums and storage sites.

stone baba
Odessa museum
July 2013

I once mentioned the word Baba came from the east, from a time when languages were still young - and the word was an honorific. Today you can hear people of Hindi background refer to their honoured leaders, wise ones or valued life companions with the term Baba.  It makes me happy to know the rich, cultural baggage that comes with the honoured title Baba.  Baba - the guardian, the honoured one, the sentinel, the silent keeper of ancestral memory with but one wish - the hope that someone would notice - "we were here".     Eternal memory!

Eyes on Chersonesos - UNESCO World Heritage Site

the eyes of the Theotokos from the ancent temple at Chersonesos,
possibly the eyes that saw King and Sovereign Volodymyr of Rus',
now in Chersonesos Museum
amk 2013

The Ancient city of Chersonesos, located near the Crimean port city of Sevastopol on Ukraine's Black Sea coast has been declared a UNCESCO World Heritage Site!  This very important place in world history marks the seventh to fifth centuries BC ancient meeting of Greeks and indigenous peoples, and how their relationship led to Chersonesos becoming the birthplace of democracy in this part of the world.  Few places on earth have had such a long and vital history!

temple/basilica
Chersonesos
amk2013

This summer's Black Sea Cruise vacation (2013) included a very important stop in Chersonesus. Landing at the Crimean (Greek for peninsula) port city of Sevastopol was intriguing, but then the absolutely unexpected splendor of the archeological ruins protected at the National Preserve of Tauric Chersonesos site was overwhelming. Thankfully for admirers of history's wisdom, the President of Ukraine in 1993 declared the site a Preserve, given the status of a national institution of culture. Since that time, important scholarly teams involving archeologists, historians and specialists of related fields have worked to establish an archeological park, enlisting non-profit and non-governmental organizations abroad. The significance of this site has met an appreciative international audience.

Chersonesos city, amk2013

lmk2013

Ancient indigenous cultures and warring tribes including the impressive Taurians, Cimmerians, and Scythians lived in this highly desired locations. Greek colonists from Miletus in the 7th to 5th centuries BC established an independent, self-governed city state which variously enslaved, employed and eventually included these peoples as participants in the popular assembly of free peoples who would decide on law, wars, peace and governance together.  For two thousand years Chersonesos was the major political, economic and cultural centre of this northern Black Sea region, enduring political and economic upsurges and threats including fascinating times of Roman and Byzantine Empire influence.  Ancient and modern time looting, and construction related sprawl of modern city-growth, including illegal agricultural activity are a threat to the site.  In June 2013 UNESCO finally included the Chersonesos site on the list of World Heritage Sites because of its outstanding universal value. With this international focus, the Ukrainian authorities are committed toward strengthened heritage management and preservation.  The first foreign teams to be given access to conduct research at this site (1990's) from The Institute of Classical Archeology at the University of Texas contributed to this sea change with their amazing academic journey through the excavations and finds in Chersonesos.

The Texas led research team spokespeople indicate the project includes an offer to the Government of Ukraine of a long term project, to set up a world class archeological park on the territory of Chersonesos. A number of US private non-profit foundations and other generous supporters have already contributed to the archeological excavations, but issues such as coastal erosion and the important infrastructure for international tourism require priority attention and financial support. And Ukraine's Minister of Culture will urgently need to protect the Ukrainian state owned property from attempts by the Russian Orthodox Church to seize and appropriate the site.

Incidentally, the one hryvnia banknote has an image of Chersonesos on the reverse side!

http://www.biblicalarchaeology.org/daily/news/chersonesos-receives-its-due/
http://archive.archaeology.org/0211/abstracts/slavic.html

http://www.utexas.edu/news/2013/09/19/unesco-world-heritage-site/

Walking the Neighborhood

Street in Kyiv in honor of Kyivan Rus' Sovereign,
King and Saint Volodymyr.
amk2013

A couple of weeks ago or more I set out on a Black Sea Cruise. What drew me here? Am I on vacation to rest, am I tracing my ancestral roots, or is my inquiring mind thirsting for adventure?  I think it is more complicated than that.  Ancestral roots are one thing, but there is a context for my ancestors life choices, for leaving these lands and emigrating to Canada.  How better to understand at least some of that than to walk in their neighborhood.

The trip started in Constantinople, toured the Rock Church monastery in Sumela, visited Trabzon (the trading port through which many people from the now Ukrainian lands entered Turkey many centuries ago), Batumi Georgia, Feodosia, Sevastopol, Yalta, Balaklava, Odessa, Nessebur Bulgaria, Kyiv, Lviv, Sokal, Kaniv, and more.  History oozes out of every nook and cranny here.  Centuries old buildings, old stone babas, fortresses in ruins, castles and palaces, churches in every condition, those almost destroyed all the way through to beautifully new-built marble temples, and roads that have served the common folk for centuries. Rubbernecking like a tourist I have stood slack jawed, stunned and in awe of the swath of physical artifacts from this civilization, from the people in my ancestry.  Filled to the brim with thoughts bubbling and swirling, I am finding it hard to trim back my writing to a few paragraphs.

I may have initially thought the term "native/foreigner" was appropriate, but I have been a tourist, plain and simple.  Walking through museums, touring the sites, hearing lectures and listening to tour guide interpretations is an opportunity for serious learning. Nothing passive about it.  Watch an experienced traveler and you will see how they assume the "stance", ears perky, eyes wide and observant, and a mind swirling with connections. Notebook in one hand, camera in the other, crazy sunhat, water bottle, and sore feet are just the start. Soaking it all in means active processing.  One net of understanding laid upon another web, upon another grid, upon another......and the moment these nets cross an exhilarating jolt of recognition runs through the body.

The exponents in the display case could have been part of my life, these things could be part of my family's lifestyle, these could be the tools, the weapons, the products, the hopes, dreams and aspirations of my near and far ancestors.  Finding a quiet spot to tend for one's life, to live in peace and comfort, to provide for family has been the most important thing a person could do.  This could be my life, but for the adventurous streak in my ancestors.  The jobs,  groceries, children, homes, and survival were all part of living here.  It all speaks of industrious, resilient, ambitious people wanting to thrive, spending a lifetime in the pursuit.  But the winds here are powerful, so swaying and bending is part of living here.

Nobody here is passive, even though it may look like it on the surface. Paraphrasing an poster hanging in the Balaklava Museum, "don't say everything you know, nor know enough to say".  Tour guides and lecturers continue to be constantly aware of their audience, remembering to stay "on the script", concerned for the security of their jobs. History is everywhere, and people sometimes choose not to see what is right in front of them, for a good reason.  I feel like a detective on the trail of a treasure, finding bits of it here and there, excited for the parts I understand and puzzled by much.  But I get the feeling that some people living here feel the exact same way.  For answers to some of the puzzles, a serious treasure hunt, they might enjoy a "stay-cation" excursion to the intriguing museums here, too.  For that matter, maybe the Ukrainian museums here in Canada and the US might be an interesting start!  Fascinating stuff.

Check The Ukrainian Museum of Canada for more http://www.umc.sk.ca/page/happening.

The Propaganda Machine

Propaganda is an amazing thing.  Powerful and effective, it is also revealing in its simplicity.  The absolute need to impress the simple folk with desperate machinations speaks volumes.  Throughout this Black Sea Cruise we have been touring the important sites, hearing reputed speakers from America, and then setting off with local guides and interpreters.  Impressive, learned presenters from American universities who have a humility, a respect for the many players in the historical drama have shared some high points in the complex unravellings of the nation-states-people and "culture" of the area.  Lectures about the ikon tradition of Eastern Orthodoxy, authors of note, myth and legend have filled the "free time" hours of what would otherwise have been a beach visit.  Altogether very intelligent, very high class.  And very respectful.

Here on the territory of a sovereign Ukraine, it is interesting to observe the quality of the local guides hired to present the highlights of the region though.  My personal experience with local guides in North America, and Europe of course are my frame of reference.  In each of those cases as representatives of their culture, nation and people, I have noted the generosity and genuine love for their topic.  And pride for the accomplishments of their nation, people and culture.  It is a little different here.

We have seen the resourcefulness of local bus drivers, the generosity of local vendors, and appreciated the human faces that met ours.  At one museum I was approached by a young man keenly interested in selling some books about Ukraine, and found him a lovely, genuine person who cared for his country and tried to meet me half way between Ukrainian and Russian.  In another case, an old man playing a bandura, kobzar style, brought us to tears with his fervent plea for things Ukrainian here.  We have also experienced some social decorum faux pas, things that speak volumes about class and status. 

In Sevastopol the opportunity came for the Black Sea Fleet Ensemble to perform on the cruise ship.  Lovely singing, and graceful dancing - all appreciated by a North American audience.  But it was like seeing something from a place in history that does not seem to want to change.  Unfortunately here, the performers were not champions of Ukraine and her sovereign language, but a carry over from empire  times.  The songs and images had an old-fashioned-ness that for some, must speak if nostalgia, I guess.   But though my cruise mates admired, they were clearly aware, and observant.  Open eyes, open hearts and keen intellect catches things, you see.  Through North American eyes, it did seem a bit over the top to have a high-power troupe perform for simple tourists.  It just does not happen that the state troupe is conveniently available for a small cruise audience, at least in my world.  

I am a native/foreigner here and a tourist too. Being a consumer, I recognize quality, but I also know what I paid for. Is it too presumptuous to think this "high class" show was more than "cruise entertainment"?  Or perhaps was it cleverly packaged propoganda, a form of communication intentionally designed, in this case in emotionally loaded music and dance, to perpetuate an ideological, irrational fraud about Empire on unknowing consumers?  But does being a tourist in Ukraine necessarily mean one should believe all the big glitzy gestures? Do we have enough media and propaganda savvy filters to see what is real beneath all the "stage presence"?